Manimahesh Yatra
The Manimahesh Dal (lake) is in the Bharmour Region of Chamba District in
Himachal Pradesh. Chamba is 124 km NE of Pathankot and Bharmour is 64 km SE of
Chamba
Kinner Kailash
Parikrama Mt Kinner Kailash is in eastern Himachal Pradesh, in Kinnaur
District, close to India’s border with Tibet. Sangla is 227 km NE of Shimla
Adi Kailash Yatra
In Pithoragarh District of the Kumaon Himalaya, near the border with Tibet.
Aimora is 365 km NE of Delhi, Dharchula is 170 km NE of Aimora
Nanda Devi Jat In
Chamoli District of the Garhwal Himalaya in Uttaranchal, the Nanda Devi Raj Jat
is an exceptionally difficult yatra in the remotely inaccessible sanctuary of
the Nanda Devi NP, undertaken by the faithful once in 12 years. Lohajang, the
roadhead (with Wan as the base point) for the Nanda Devi Raj Jat, is 80 km SE
of Karanprayag
Lord Krishna sain in th Bhagvad Gita. “Of the mountains, I
am the Himalaya." ' Swami Vivekananda remarked that India has so many gods
and goddesses because it is so close to their home, the Himalaya, the Dev
Bhoomi.
Tirths are often
located at picturesque places that bring their own joy to the pilgrim beside
rivers, on top of mountains, on islands. The Brihat Samhita describes a tirth
in these lyrical words, “The gods always play where the lakes are, where the
sun’s rays are warded off by umbrellas of lotus leaf clusters, and where clear
water paths are made by swans, whose breasts toss the white lotuses hither and
thither. ” The Himalaya finds extensive 'mention in Hindu mythology, including
in the different Puranas, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. The five icy
summits of the Panchchuli Range belong to the five Pandava brothers.
Uttarakhand’s legendary Gandhamadan, from where Hanuman Lord Krishna said in
the Bhagvad Gita, collected the Sanjeevani
herb to revive Lakshman, is believed to be a reference to the ethereal Valley
of Flowers, now a notified National Park. Many holy rivers, including the divine
Ganga, are born here. The Kullu Valley of Himachal Pradesh, the ’valley of
gods’, alone has over 350 temples. The sleepy little village of Naggar in
Himachal is home to four temples taking the circuitous path to all of them
is considered equivalent to doing the Char Dham Yatra! Almost every mountain
lake is a revered site, and most passes, windy ridges and icy summits have not
only Hindu lore associated with them, but also Buddhist and Sikh legends. In
fact, as adventurers will testify, many a trekking trail merely follows an old
pilgrimage route.
Covering a total area of about 600,000 sq km, the youngest
mountain range in the world is still rising at the rate of about 6mm a year.
This aalaya (home) of him (snow) has the earth’s largest snowfields (more than 45,000 sq km) outside of the polar
region. Whether adventurer, philosopher, artist, ecologist, thinker or tourist,
anyone who sets foot here makes a pilgrimage. Even the intrepid mountain hiker
will tell you that a journey to the Himalaya always involves a certain
uplifting of the soul. The pilgrims’ perception of this sacred landscape, which
Hindu scriptures call the Kedarkhand, is somewhat different. Their goal is
single- minded: that of darshan of their beloved deity. The actual trek is then
necessary penance, a sublime worship undertaken within what is possibly the
most beautiful temple in the world.
MANIMAHESH YATRA
The land of the Gaddi shepherds, Bharmour is rarely visited
by tourists. During July- August, however, this small, misty, rain- drenched
town bustles with divine purpose as nearly a hundred thousand pilgrims
undertake the pilgrimage to the sacred Manimahesh Lake. At the end of the
seven- day fair, which follows Janmashtami, the high priests of Bharmour lead
pilgrims to the Manimahesh Dal. The holy Kailash Peak (18,556 ft) is mirrored
to perfection in the placid waters of the lake. The glaciers below the peak are
the origin of the Manimahesh Ganga, which partly drains the lake and exits via
a lovely waterfall. Pilgrims take a dip in the lake, then pray to Chaumukha, a
marble Shivaling, before proceeding on three parikramas of the lake. A rock in
the shape of a Shivaling, located on the Kailash Mountain, is worshipped as the
manifestation of Shiva, the presiding deity of this yatra. Pilgrims feel
blessed if clear weather permits a darshan.
All attempts to scale Kailash have been thwarted so far and
locals attribute this to the powers of the holy mountain. In local lore a Gaddi
shepherd once tried to climb the peak along with his sheep, and he and his herd
were instantly turned to stone. Numerous small rocks around the Kailash Peak
are said to bear testimony to this legend. Beneath the peak lies a vast
snowfield called Shiva’s Chaugan, the fabled playground for Shiva and Parvati.
A little before the lake are the twin water bodies of Shiva Krotri and Gauri
Kund.
Chaurasia Temple
complex, Bharmour
Life in Bharmour, or Brahmpura as the ancient capital
was known, centres around the Chaurasia Temple square, which owes its name to
the 84 shrines built within its periphery. The beautiful shikham of the
Manimahesh Temple dominates the square while a life-size image of Nandi in
polished brass stands before it.
Every pilgrimage in
the Himalaya,
the Dev Bhoomi where
gods live, is
both an adventure and
a penance
According to one legend, 84 yogis visited Brahmpura during
the reign of Raja Sahil Verman. Pleased with his hospitality, they blessed the
raja with 10 sons who in turn erected the temple complex. Another story goes
that Shiva, accompanied by 84 yogis, stopped at Brahmani Devi’s vatika (garden)
on his way to Manimahesh. The devi, displeased by the trespassing, ordered them
out of the place. However, at Shiva’s request, the devi' consented to let them
stay and the yogis turned themselves into lingas. According to another version,
the 84 yogis paid no heed to the goddess, who turned them into stones in a fit
of rage.
Although each temple in the complex enjoys its own history
and sanctity, some of the more important temples in the complex are those of
Sri Manimahesh/ Harihar, Nar Singh, Lakshna Devi, Ganesh, Shiva Davala,
Nandigran, Mahadev, Shivalaya, Sitla Devi, Ardh Gaya and Dharamraj/ Yamraj.
Built in shikhara style, the predominant temple is that of Manimahesh. While
the woodwork in the Lakshna Devi Temple to Durga is superb, the Dharamraj/
Yamraj Temple at the northern corner of the complex is made of stone and wood
and has a pendant roof. It is believed that souls of the departed pass through
this temple on their way to Shivaloka, ie, Kailash. The court of Chandragupt is
located right in front of this temple. He is believed to keep records of each
individual’s good "and bad deeds.
The route
The three-day yatra involves trekking from Bharmour to
Hadsar (17 km/ 1/2 hr by road; shared taxis approx Rs 250 per ' person) on Day
1. At the confluence of the Budhil and Dhanchoo nallahs lies the hamlet of
Hadsar (had = bones, sar = pond), where bones of the dead were immersed in days
gone by. The camping ground is on the left bank of the river. On Day 2, yatris
begin the climb up stone steps to the local Shiva temple. The trail ascends and
then descends through thick forests to reach Dhanchho (4 km/ 1 hr), a lush
pasture with a beautiful waterfall. On Day 3, yatris trek 6 km to Manimahesh
Lake, and return the same day (8 hrs, return journey inclusive). The path is
hewn off the slope and meanders above the glacier for an hour, before returning
to
the glacier. After an
hour’s trek across scree slopes (watch out for falling rocks on this stretch),
yatris come upon the twin ponds of Shiva Krotri (men take a dip here) and Gauri
Kund (women do 50). During the monsoon yatra season, the glacier is trans-
formed into a river and temporary bridges are put up wherever necessary. Tented
l accommodation and dhabas spring up . along the route during the yatra season.
.- There is no ban on non-vegtarian food ; on this pilgrimage. The
semi-nomadic, ‘ pastoral Gaddi tribespeople traditionally * offer goat
sacrifices to Shiva. Locals take ’ newborn sons for tonsuring ceremonies at the
lake.
Facilities provided by the Himachal Government during the
Jul—Aug yatra season :- make it possible to travel light. However, the crowds
and litter can prove to be rather overwhelming. It is also possible to
undertake this journey in May-Jun or Sep-Oct but prepare well for a walk over
snowfields
Getting there and about
The nearest railhead is Pathankot. State ‘ buses and taxis
ply from here to Chamba ’
(124 km/ 4 hrs). Buses ply from the main Chamba Bus Stand
regularly to Bharmour -; while taxis take Rs 1,500 for the journey. ‘ Bharmour
has a small line-up of cheap : guest houses (Rs 100-300). A few dhabas in the
town provide cheap and basic meals. ‘ The Forest Rest House 8 km ahead of the
town (10 mins uphill climb from * roadhead) enjoys a superb location though 1
it is poorly maintained and has no . electricity or running water. The
caretaker, however, arranges everything including ‘ firewood and water by the
bucket. The : permit has to be organised from the SDM’s ' office, Bharmour (Rs
100 per day).
KINNER KAILASH
PARIKARAMA
Ancient texts describe the Kinners, the people of Kinnaur,
as half-men, half-gods. A remote, restricted corner of Himachal till
The stunning Kinner
Kailash massif
5993 (when it was opened to tourism), in the‘ mystical vales
of this erstwhile forbidden kingdom, lies the Kinner Kailash massif (19,849
ft). The 79-foot high rock formation upon it resembling a Shivaling is deeply
revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike. The challenging yet highly rewarding
kora (parikrama) around the Kinner Kailash attracts many pilgrims in August.
The hike involves crossing two tough passes, the Lalanti La
(14,501 ft) and the even more strenuous Charang La (17,218 ft). The kora starts
from Kalpa via the Triung Valley and heads back to Kalpa Via the Sangla Valley.
Prayer flags dot the route and quaint villages on the way seem to be located
amidst clouds. Traditionally, pilgrims time their yatra to reach Cha- rang, the
last village in the Tedong Valley, on the Hindu festival of Janmashtami (Krishna’s
birthday) in August. This remains the best time for the parikrama. Temporary
shelters, free langars and dha- bas come up along the route. It is, how- ever,
advisable to carry tents and sleeping hags along.
The route
On Day 1, all groups of yatris register f’
themselves at the ITBP post in Thangi :1 (8,727 ft, 41 km from Rekong Peo, the
district headquarters of Kinnaur) and} proceed to Lambar (9,678 ft), 10 km
away," by a well-marked mule track. On Day the 8-hr trek to Charang
(11,319 ft) is , undertaken. Soon after Lambar, deodars and pines give way to
birch and juniper as"? ‘ the trees begin thinning out. Right at thes
beginning of the Charang Village is the Irrigation and Health Department Rest
House, near which tents can be pitched. The 6-hr trek to Lalanti (14,108 ft) is
taken up on Day 3, after receiving blessings at the temple of Rangrik Tungma,
only 2 km uphill from Charang, without which the parikrama would be incomplete.
The 14-hr trek on Day 4 is a demanding one involv- ing a tough ascent from
Lalanti to the Charang Pass, followed by a long descent ., to pay respects to
the powerful goddess of Chitkul. Chitkul (11,319 ft) has a passable PWD Rest House (bookings with the ;
Assistant Engineer at Karchham, or with the District Collector at Rekong Peo,
although the chowkidar will be happy to take you in if he has vacant rooms).
Getting there and
about
Take a taxi or bus from Shimla to Rekong Peo (231 km/ 9
hrs), district headquarters of Kinnaur, or head for the more picturesque Kalpa (17 km further ahead). Proceed to
T hangi the next day.
ADI KAILASH YATRA
The circumambulation of the Adi Kailasl Range, approaching
up the Darma, using the Shin La as the link and returning Vi: the Kuthi Yankti
Valley to join thi Tibetan pilgrim route down the Kal Ganga is known as the Adi
Kailash Yatra The Circuit is rarely completed because tilt Shin La is a high
pass, usually snow- bound. However, increasing numbers oi Indian pilgrims trek
up to Jollingkong via the Kali Ganga route. Also, thanks to easing of
restrictions, foreigners can undertake the journey as well.
Adi Kailash or Chhota Kailash and Parvati Sarovar (Gauri
Kund) are consi. dered near equivalent to Mount Kailash and Manasarovar Lake in
Tibet. The Adi Kailash Yatra is considered next best to visiting Mount Kailash
itself. Along the route is the breathtaking Om Parvat. Snow falls upon this
beautiful mountain in the shape of the sacred ‘Om’, which is just as
beautifully reflected in Gauri Kund, at its base. This incredible phenomenon
will move even the most die-hard cynic.
The route for this pilgrimage is the same as that of the
Kailash-Mansarovar Yatra (MEA trek) up to Gunji. From Gunji,
Kailash-Manasarovar yatris head for the Lipu Lekh Pass, beyond which lies
China. Adi Kailash permit holders need to go to Gunji via Budhi and then trek
onwards to Jollingkong,fron where Adi Kailash Parvati Sarovar are a short return
trip.
Getting There
The
nearest railhead is Kathgodam. Hire
a jeep taxi for Pithoragarh (190 km/
7 hrs), or take a bus. VariOus places in Pithoragarh District are connected by
good metallic roads and have decent public transport services. An Inner Line
Permit is essential as the entire Adi Kailash Yatra is along the Indo-Nepal
border. This can be had from the magistrate’s office in ' Dharchula (70 km/3
hrs) by submitting valid ID and day-to-day itinerary. Keep passport-size
pictures handy. Porters and guides can be hired from T awa Ghat for Rs 200 a
day. KMVN organises the Adi Kailash Yatra for an all-inclusive cost of approx
Rs 15,200 per person. This is a very good option. Some private
tour operators also organise this pilgrimage.
NANADA DEVI JAT
The
patron goddess of Uttarakhand, Nanda Devi is a peak especially sacred to the
people of Garhwal and Kumaon. Surrounded by a barrier ring of 12 high
mountains, she stands protected in the now-forbidden sanctuary of the same name
(the Nanda Devi National Park), with shrines devoted to her scattered all over
the central Himalaya. While Parvati is believed to reside at the Nanda Devi
Peak, the nearby Trishul, shaped like the trident, is Shiva’s abode. The rims
of peaks that surround her include the . Nanda Khat (her bed), Nanda Ghungti
(her veil) and Nanda Kot (her kitchen). Clouds around the Nanda Kot are often
ascribed to smoke coming out of Parvati’s kitchen.
The Nanda Devi Jat is celebrated annually in the many
temples to Nanda Devi throughout Garhwal and Kumaon. The festivities commence
with the auspicious day earmarked for the devi’s visit to her maiti (parents’
home) and culminate with her departure back to her husband’s home. This
tradition is beautifully portrayed in the folk songs and iagars sung by the
women of Uttarakhand. An annual yatra, called the Chhoti (small) Jat Yatra, is
celebrated every year around end August or earlySeptember, which starts from
the Wan Village and ends
at Bedni Bugyal. Once in 12 years, this festival is
transformed into a magnificent 21-day journey guided by a four-horned ram, born
every 12th year, which leads yatris to Shiva's home at the base of the Trishul
Peak. This is the Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra, the royal pilgrimage. It was last
held in the year 2000, when an estimated 50,000 people undertook the arduous
and breathtaking journey. Contact GMVN and KMVN for the yatra itinerary.
Getting there
Reaching the Nanda Devi Jat base is a com- bination of rail
and road journeys. From Delhi (400 km/ 12 hrs), take NHSB to Karanprayag. Night stays at Haridwar or Rudraprayag. The yatra roadhead,
Loha-jang, is 80 km south-east of Karanprayag; Wan, the yatra base point, is a 10-km trek away. Taxi fare from
the Haridwar railhead (254 km/ 9 hrs) is Rs 3,000 approx.
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